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The Late 14th Century Neidhart Frescos : The Oldest Secular Murals in Vienna

By Billie Ann Lopez

 
His songs and poems were known as hoefische Dorfpoesie (courtly folk poetry) of which his irreverent Violet Prank is one of the most profane.

Billie Ann Lopez
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Fragments of 14th century wall frescos found beneath the crumbling plaster of an old apartment in the heart of Vienna, depict a popular medieval cycle of songs of the 13th century minnesinger, Neidhart von Reuental.  In the very late 14th century, Michel Menschein, a wealthy Viennese council member and cloth merchant, commissioned local artists to paint the stories in Neidhart's songs on the walls of his Festsaal (banquet hall).

Although far from complete now due to their great age and almost 600 years of living by owners and tenants in the apartment, the restored frescos provide visitors a unique peek into medieval humor, and at the same time, a peek into the taste of a medieval man.

Minnesingers were 12th and 13th century court poets of the Austrian and German nobility.  By and large, these poets confined their themes to the expression of idealized love and adoration of a knight for a lady.  The word Minne meant chivalrous love. Neidhart von Reuenthal, who was considered one of the twelve masters of song and a precursor of the Meistersinger (Master Singers), broadened his genre to include comic and rather earthy descriptions of village life to entertain the court.  His songs and poems were known as hoefische Dorfpoesie (courtly folk poetry) of which his irreverent Violet Prank is one of the most profane.

Next to a window of Mr. Menschein's Festsaal, time-scarred fragments of the Violet Prank fresco depict Neidhart's parody of an old Viennese custom.  According to legend, the Babenberg Dukes, who ruled Austria from the 10th to the 13th century, set aside their affairs of state each year to join the Viennese in the countryside to celebrate the first spring violet.  The man who found this symbol of spring first, covered his treasure with his hat and then raced to report his find to the Duke's Court.  The lucky man was then awarded the honor of dancing with his choice of maidens at the Festival of Violets

Neidhart von Reuenthal composed a lyric, based on this Viennese rite of spring, in which he himself discovers the violet and places his hat over it.  On his return, accompanied by the Duke and his Court, he lifts his hat only to discover that a practical jokester befouled the violet in his absence.  Unfortunately, the segment of the fresco depicting the actual lifting of the hat has not survived.

The Theft of the Mirror fresco depicts a bit of crude groping beneath the skirts of a reclining woman by a courtly oaf. Such a depiction hardly reflects the idealized Age of Chivalry still dominating the times, A "mirror", by the way, was a euphemism for virginity back then.  The Doerperkampf (peasant brawl) fresco is thought to reflect Neidhart's disdain for the growing wealth and power of the peasant classes.

There are ten frescos in all. Mr. Menschein's choice of Neidhart's songs to decorate his walls is evidence that he was a man of humor, a man of fun who delighted in entertaining his guests.  While looking at the frescos one by one, the viewer can easily imagine the past pleasures of Menschein's family and friends who partied here.  The nudges and laughter of his many guests undoubtedly delighted their host as well, as he and they danced the nights away so long ago.  Surely, a good time was had by all.

It would be pleasing to report that Mr. Menschein lived out his days here.  Sad to say, that was not to be.  Financial difficulties eventually forced Mr. Menschein to mortgage his beloved home and move out.  He died a few years later in greatly reduced circumstances.

The Neidhart Frescos may be seen in all their splendid fun in the original Festsaal located in the now Baroque-styled building at Tuchlauben 19 in the First District of Vienna. Telephone 535 90 65 for opening hours.

Billie Ann Lopez

Billie Ann Lopez was an American freelance writer, born and raised in Kansas. For many years she called Vienna, the city she loved, home. Billie Ann's articles tell you about the legends, places in Austria not often on the tourist maps and subjects close to her heart. Informative, descriptive and interesting she acquainted you with her Austria.

Billie Ann Lopez passed away September 13th, 2003. She enriched our lives through her friendship, caring and writings. Billie Ann, you are greatly missed. Silvia McDonald

Traveler's Guide to Jewish Germany

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Traveler's Guide to Jewish Germany

Billie Ann Lopez  & Peter Hirsch,

Their Guide reflects a thousand years of German Jewish life and culture through surviving synagogues, mikvoth, museum collections, cemeteries, and memorials.

The Guide contains an abundance of color photographs, brief histories for each community are included as well as addresses and maps, a glossary of terms in English, German, and Hebrew, and a comprehensive chronology of major historical events in German Jewish life and culture.

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